Nepal attracts visitors keen to explore its diverse scenery – from jungles to high mountain peaks, to discover its fascinating wildlife and delve into its rich cultural heritage.
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The country has much to offer all year round. Differences in the seasons determine where’s good to go at any given time of year – meaning the best time to go to Nepal goes hand-in-hand with the activities on your wishlist.
While winter is mostly clear and stable it can also be seriously cold in trekking areas. Spring sees warm weather, while the months of autumn are clear, dry and fresh after the recent rains.
Each season has its charms and each offers something different to travellers exploring this wonderful Himalayan country.
During these months, expect to see heavy rains every day, especially in July and August. During June and September, rain is considerably lighter. The good news is that monsoon rains usually only last for a couple of hours and their timing is quite predictable. So it’s still possible to enjoy a great trip to Nepal during the monsoon – all you need to do is choose your destination and itinerary carefully, especially if trekking is top of the list.
The monsoon doesn’t affect all of Nepal equally. Areas in the Himalayan rain shadow, such as Dolpo and Humla in western Nepal and the Mustang region north of Annapurna, are spared the drenching other areas receive. The area of Pokhara is the wettest part of Nepal during monsoon.
The main thing to remember about the monsoon season is that you need to be flexible with your travel plans. In some areas, flights may be delayed or cancelled due to heavy rains. Landslides can happen, causing road closures. Always check with your hotel or guest house before heading on a road trip during monsoon season. They should be able to find the most up-to-date information about road conditions. Bring appropriate waterproof clothing and keep your electronics in waterproof bags if you’re out and about.
And bear in mind, when the rain stops it will still be hot and sunny, so you can still get out and discover the country during the monsoon season.
Low season (which coincides with the monsoon season) can be an option if you’re on a budget. Firstly, you’re likely to find discounts on accommodation and tours – plus, you won’t have to deal with crowds. Secondly, if you don’t plan on hitting the Himalayas, monsoon season can be a great time to visit.
Spring is a good time to visit Nepal’s valleys and forests. March marks the start of the blooming season in many parts of the country and large areas are covered in bright pink rhododendrons – Nepal’s national flower. This is also a great time to explore centres of Buddhist culture and architecture, such as Tengboche monastery.
You can have a fabulous travel experience in Nepal during the winter. Low humidity and minimal chances of rain make this season great for travel photography and low-altitude hikes.
The cold season is also a good time to spend a few days exploring Bandipur. This charming town will catch your eye with its traditional wooden architecture, busy markets, and scenic trails. The town is a five-hour drive from Kathmandu, which makes it a convenient getaway if you get tired of the capital’s hectic pace.
Speaking of Kathmandu, winter is a great time to layer up and explore the old city. Low temperatures are the perfect excuse to sit at a café in Thamel and enjoy a glass of Nepali tea, which comes in many varieties, or a cup of Nepal’s own-grown coffee.
The winter months are generally dry and settled, so it can be a good time for trekking – although it is inevitably colder. There can be snow at 2500m – sometimes lower, while conditions can mean passes over 4000m are uncrossable. You’ll also need appropriate gear for cold temperatures and heavy snowfall if trekking at high altitudes. Challenging conditions aside, if you’re an experienced trekker this can be a wonderful time to be on the mountains, with far fewer trekkers venturing out. At lower altitudes it can feel more like spring already.
But the options don’t end there: you can also explore lesser-visited destinations, such as the tea plantations in Ilam, in eastern Nepal. There’s also Panch Pokhari, a remote high-altitude wetland area home to five glacial lakes. Mountain scenery could also be your stunning backdrop at one of Nepal’s yoga retreats.
By May it is getting hotter and hazier and the weather is somewhat unsettled, with afternoon storms quite common. Go high if you’re trekking and expect rain, especially in the known wetter regions, such as Annapurna and the far eastern parts of the country.
What’s more, summer is a pleasant time to go to Nepal if you want to avoid big crowds and peak season prices.
If you’re into landscape or wildlife photography, early June is the time to see the spectacular landscapes at Shey Poksundo (She-Phoksundo) National Park. This is the country’s biggest national park, and as such, it’s home to hundreds of animal and plant species. You may even be able to spot endangered species here, such as Himalayan black bears, snow leopards and blue sheep.
Most people who visit Nepal for its superb trekking opportunities avoid the monsoon. Downpours can render trekking paths too slippery and muddy – plus, there are leeches to contend with! Mountain views may be obscured and general travelling around can prove problematic.
That said, you don’t need to rule out trekking altogether. Avoid wet areas, such as Annapurna and the far east of Nepal and stick to parts where the monsoon is weaker instead. The far west and areas in the Himalayan rain shadow are relatively sheltered. These include Dolpo, Humla and the mystical Mustang region north of Annapurna.
Mustang, home to Kali Gandaki Gorge, which at 8,270 feet (2,520 metres) is the deepest gorge in the world. Other must-sees in the area include villages such as Marpha (also known as the Apple Capital of Nepal) and Kagbeni.
Just remember, if you are travelling to Nepal for trekking expeditions, allow for sudden changes to your itinerary. The rain can affect transport, with delays and cancellations possible. Check road conditions before you venture out and bring waterproof clothing.
It’s as well to bear in mind, when the rain stops it will still be hot and sunny, so you can still get out and discover the country during the monsoon season.
Daytime temperatures during the day at high altitudes are pleasantly cool for walking, whereas it’s hotter lower down. At night it’s getting colder high up but it’s unlikely to be too severe.
You’ll also have the chance to enjoy some of Nepal’s biggest festivals, such as Dashain (Desain, or Dashera) and Tihar (Tihaar), important Hindu festivals.
Mid-October to mid-November is the best time for serious climbing and mountaineering in Nepal. But this also means that from September it’s the busiest time in the Himalayas. If you’d rather avoid the crowds, consider less popular destinations and activities:
Kathmandu weather is relatively mild compared to other parts of the country. The average annual temperature in Nepal’s capital city is a pleasant 18°C. January is the coldest month in Kathmandu (average 9°C). The hottest month is June with average temperatures of 23°C, and the wettest is July with more than 15 days of rain in the month. If you want to avoid rainy weather, November is your best bet.
The Kathmandu Valley is not as affected by monsoon rains as other parts of the country. Some flooding may happen here and there, but it shouldn’t affect your sightseeing plans. Remember that monsoon rains only last a few hours. Plan your activities around this, and you should have no problem visiting Kathmandu during the rainy season.
On the other hand, spring – and the period before winter, bring dry and warm weather. These seasons are the best for high-altitude expeditions such as those to Annapurna, Everest, or Langtang.
Trekking in Nepal doesn’t always have to involve great heights. There are many short and lower-altitude hikes you can do around the Kathmandu Valley. A trek on the forested mountain of Phulchowki (Phulchoki) will take you from subtropical vegetation through Nepal chestnut, evergreen oaks and, of course, rhododendron. The unspoiled forest is one of the best places in Nepal for butterfly-spotting and birdwatching.
Or you can choose the Champadevi trek and go on a discovery journey of Tibetan monasteries.
These treks can be done all year round, except for the rainy season. For safety always go with a group when going on walks in the Phulchowki forest, as there have been robberies in recent years. And stick to the trails – anti-personnel mines were laid during the conflict in this region and you can't be 100% sure that they've all been removed.
Read more on trekking: where to go and when, accommodation, remote and restricted areas, organised treks and trekking independently, equipment, safety – and more.
Stumbling onto a local festival may prove to be the highlight of your travels in Nepal – and given the sheer number of them, you’d be unlucky not to. Though most are religious in nature, merrymaking, not solemnity, is the order of the day, and onlookers are always welcome. Festivals may be Hindu, Buddhist, animist or a hybrid of all three.
Hindu events can take the form of huge pilgrimages and fairs (mela), or more introspective gatherings such as ritual bathings at sacred confluences (tribeni) or special acts of worship (puja) at temples. Many see animal sacrifices followed by family feasts, with priests and musicians usually on hand. Parades and processions (jaatra) are common, especially in the Kathmandu Valley.
Buddhist festivals are no less colourful, typically bringing together maroon-robed clergy and lay pilgrims to walk and prostrate themselves around stupas (dome-shaped monuments, usually repainted specially for the occasion).
Many of Nepal’s animist peoples follow the Hindu calendar, but local nature-worshipping rites take place across the hills throughout the year. Shamanic rites usually take place at home, at the request of a particular family, although shamans themselves have their own calendar of fairs (mela) at which they converge on a particular holy spot. You’ll have to travel widely and sensitively to have the chance to witness a shaman in action.
Jubilant Nepali weddings are always scheduled on astrologically auspicious days, which fall in the greatest numbers during the months of Magh, Phaagun and Baisaakh. The approach of a wedding party is often heralded by a hired band baajaa or brass band and open-air feasts go on until the early hours. The bride usually wears red, and for the rest of her married life she will colour the parting of her hair with red sindur.
Funeral processions should be left in peace. The body is normally carried to the cremation site within hours of death by white-shrouded friends and relatives; white is the colour of mourning for Hindus, and the eldest son is expected to shave his head and wear white for a year following the death of a parent. Many of the hill tribes conduct special shamanic rites to guide the deceased’s soul to the land of the dead.
Basanta Panchami This one-day spring festival is celebrated on the fifth day after the new moon in most Hindu hill areas. The day is also known as Saraswati Puja, after the goddess of learning, and Shri Panchami, after the Buddhist saint Manjushri. School playgrounds are decorated with streamers and children have their books and pens blessed; high-caste boys may undergo a special rite of passage.
Shivaraatri Falling on the new moon of Phaagun, “Shiva’s Night” is marked by bonfires and evening vigils in all Hindu areas, but most spectacularly at Pashupatinath, where tens of thousands of pilgrims and sadhus from all over the subcontinent gather for Nepal’s best-known mela. Fervent worship and bizarre yogic demonstrations can be seen throughout the Pashupatinath complex. Children collect firewood money by holding pieces of string across the road to block passers-by. Nepalis say the festival is usually followed by a final few days of winter weather, which is Shiva’s way of encouraging the Indian sadhus to go home.
Holi Nepal’s version of the springtime water festival, common to many Asian countries, lasts about a week, and commemorates a myth in which the god Krishna, when still a boy, outsmarted the demoness Holika. During this period, anyone is a fair target for water balloons and coloured powder. It culminates in a general free-for-all on Phaagun Purnima, the full-moon day of Phaagun.
Ram Nawami The birthday of Lord Ram is observed on the ninth day after the full moon at all temples dedicated to Vishnu in his incarnation as the hero of the Ramayana, one of the great Hindu epics. By far the biggest and most colourful celebrations take place in Janakpur, where thousands of pilgrims flock to the Ram temple.
Seto Machhendranath Jaatra Kathmandu’s answer to Patan’s Machhendranath Rath Jaatra (see below), this sees a lumbering wooden chariot containing the white mask of the god Machhendranath pulled through the narrow lanes of the old city for four days, starting on Chait Dasain.
Machhendranath Rath Jaatra Nepal’s most spectacular festival: thousands gather to watch as the image of Machhendranath, the Kathmandu Valley’s rain-bringing deity, is pulled around the streets of Patan in a swaying, 18m-high chariot. It moves only on astrologically auspicious days, taking four weeks or more to complete its journey. For more information, see Raato Machhendranath’s big ride.
Buddha Jayanti The anniversary of the Buddha’s birth. Enlightenment and death is celebrated on the full-moon day of Baisaakh at all Buddhist temples, but most visibly at Swayambhu, where the stupa is decorated with thousands of lights, and ritual dances are performed by priests dressed as the five aspects of Buddhahood. Processions are also held at the Boudha stupa and in Patan. Curiously, observances at the Buddha’s birthplace, Lumbini, are rather sparse.
Gaai Jaatra Newari tradition has it that Yamraj, the god of death, opens the gates of judgement on the day of the full moon, allowing departed souls to enter. Falling on the day after the full moon, Gaai Jaatra honours cows (gaai), who are supposed to lead departed souls to Yamraj’s abode. Processions in Kathmandu, Bhaktapur and other Newari towns are both solemn and whimsical: an occasion for families to honour loved ones who have died in the past year, but also for young boys to dress up in fanciful cow costumes or masquerade as sadhus. In Bhaktapur, where the festival is known as Gunhi Punhi and starts a day earlier (coinciding with Janai Purnima), men parade around town in humorous costumes. Satirical street performances are less common nowadays than they once were, but newspapers and magazines publish caustic Gaai Jaatra specials.
Nag Panchami On the fifth day after the new moon, Kathmandu Valley residents quietly propitiate the nag (snake spirits), who are traditionally held to control the monsoon rains and earthquakes, by pasting pictures of nag over their doorways with cow dung and offering milk, rice and other favourite nag foods to the images. Wells are cleaned only on this day, when the nag are believed to be away worshipping their ancestral deities.
Ghanta Karna On the fourteenth day after the full moon, residents of Kathmandu Valley towns celebrate the victory of the gods over the demon Ghanta Karna (“Bell Ears”) by erecting effigies and then burning or tearing them down.
Tij The three-day “Women’s Festival”, which starts on the third day after the new moon, sees groups of women clad in red singing and dancing through the streets. Letting their families fend for themselves for once, they start with a girls’ night out, feasting until midnight when they begin a day-long fast. On the second day they queue up to worship Shiva at the Pashupatinath temple outside of Kathmandu, and break the fast and ritually bathe to remove their sins on the final day.
Indra Jaatra A wild week of chariot processions and masked-dance performances in Kathmandu, held around the full moon of Bhadau. On the last day, which is also known as Kumari Jaatra, beer flows from the mouth of an idol in Durbar Square. For more information, see Indra Jaatra: eight days of pomp and partying.
Yartung A swashbuckling fair held at Muktinath, in the Annapurna trekking region, centred around the full-moon day and featuring horse racing, dancing, drinking and gambling.
Chhath Coinciding with the third day of Tihaar, this festival honours Surya, the sun god, and is one of the most important for the Maithili-speaking people of the eastern Terai. Chhath is celebrated most ardently in Janakpur, where women gather by ponds and rivers to greet the sun’s first rays with prayers, offerings and ritual baths.
Mani Rimdu Held at Tengboche and Chiwong monasteries in the Everest region around the full moon of the ninth Tibetan month (usually Oct/Nov), this colourful Sherpa masked dance dramatizes Buddhism’s victory over the ancient Bon religion in eighth-century Tibet. A similar event is held in May or June at Thami.
Folk music traditions vary among the country’s many ethnic groups, but the true sound of Nepal can be said to be the soft, melodic and complex music of the hills. Jhyaure, the maadal-based music of the western hills, is the most popular. Selo, the music of the Tamangs, has also been adopted by many other communities. Meanwhile, the music of the Jyapu (Newari farmers) has a lively rhythm, though the singing has a nasal quality.
The improvised, flirtatiously duelling duets known as dohori, traditionally performed by young men and women of the hill tribes, have become the soundtrack of modern Nepal. You’ll hear them on personal radios, mobile ringtones and bus music systems, as well as in the dedicated rodi ghars (nightlife restaurants), and will soon come to recognize the repetitive back-and-forth, him-then-her structure, with wailing flutes and unison choruses punctuating each verse.
While folk music is by definition an amateur pursuit, there are two traditional castes of professional musicians: wandering minstrels (gaaine or gandarbha) who play the sarangi (a four-stringed fiddle), and damai, members of the tailor caste who serve as wedding musicians.
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written by Rough Guides Editors
updated 17.05.2021
